We motored in calm waters and light winds on the nose the short distance (10 nm) from Borgaroya to Sandshamn on Sandsoya (Sandsøya). The marina in Sandshamn has been modified and now features very good pontoons in a square. We went inside and moored below the buildings with just enough water under the keel.

Sandsoya offers several nice walks with spectacular views. We chose the one to Grontua (Grøntua), 250 m above us. We walked counterclockwise and that was a lucky shot. Going down the path we came up (without problems) would have been more challenging as it was much steeper in places compared to the rather easy one we came down on.

There were several places to stop to admire the views and from the top, they were spectacular.

Today has been a day of looking after the boat. Light winds and rain showers as we wait for the promised northerlies on Wednesday. We have cleaned the forward cabin and dried out mattresses and all the stuff we store under the bunk. We have also defrosted the refrigerator, there was more ice than food in the small freezer compartment and fixed a number of smaller things.

There was no wind as we left Oye yesterday morning after a slow breakfast. The wind picket up dead on the nose again as we entered the main fjord. OK we taught, we will turn 80 degrees to the SW as we leave the fjord and should have some nice sailing then.

That was not to be. Instead, it started to rain as the wind was coming “around the bend” and stayed on the nose until we reached the sound to Alesund, that opened to NW. Finaly, we were able to sail – for an hour until the next mountains blocked the wind.

We took an inland rout SW and decided to go between the islands of Gurksoya and Hareidlandet.

There is a narrow and winding channel starting SW of Eika. It crosses what used to be the world’s deepest road tunnel, 260 m below the water.

Looking at the chart, we would not have chosen this route but, we had had a nice conversation with a sailor born and raised in the area at Oye and he assured us that it would not be a problem.

Despite this, our speed through Dragsundet was very slow and cautious.

The entire 8 nm of fairway is clearly marked and no less than 5 m deep and with 20 m clearances under bridge and cable at Dragsundet, so we did OK. From this nice channel we continued a little bit further north to Borgaroya (Borgarøya). This island has been home to trading posts since 1616 when a merchant from Bergen started the business. The grandfather of our friend from Oye had been running it in his days.

Now the place is owned by the municipality of Ulstien and the local sailing club has been instrumental in arranging a nice pontoon with electricity and water. A quiet dock in beautiful surroundings.

This mornng was exiting. The bridge across the sound at Midsund had a clearance of 18 meters which is lower than our mast. This led to a rather deep search for how to interpretate. Norwegian pilot (Den Norske Los Bind 1) informed us that bridges and cables were measured from highest astronomical tide.

Next problem, how to find the tide and highest astronomical tide? The Norwegian Meteorologisk institutt has a WEB page “” (and an app but the app does not have this data) where one can find a forecast for “Sea and coast” for a lot of locations. At the bottom is a table for “Predicted tides”. Below the table is a link to more detailed information where you may find everything you need if you scroll down.

Having done this exercise, we concluded that we could safely pass under the bridge with our 19,5 m mast (including antenna) on the rising tide until eight a clock in the morning. Now, the second problem was the forecasted rain the same morning as we do not like to sail in the rain. We woke up around seven and there was no rain, so we prepared to leave the dock and almost managed to do so before the rain started.

With our cockpit tent up, we cautiously pasted the bridge successfully in heavy rain. The rain continued almost until lunchtime as we motor against choppy waves and rather strong wind dead on the nose. We turned southwards after Alesund (Ålesund) and had a nice reach towards the fjord for an hour or so.

Now, one characteristic of Norwegian fjords is the high mountains that surround them. They turned our nice downwind sail to a flat calm rather suddenly and the motor was back in service again. We prefer sailing but, a small comfort whilst motoring is the nice heating we get for free as we have a water based central heating system with eight radiators heated by the engine cooling water.

We wanted to visit Hjorundfjorden (Hjörundfjorden). It is by many regarded as the most beautiful fjord in Norway even if it’s next door neighbour to NE, Geiranger, is more famous.

Hjorundfjorden is rather short and “compact” and this makes it interesting to navigate. The surrounding mountains are majestic, and we were lucky enough to have the clouds lift and even let some sun in as we went inside.

There are several villages and harbours along the fjord.

Oye (Øye) lies at the bottom of a branch to the east in a beautiful small valley. We moored to the ponton for the night.

Oye is home to a very famous hotel, built in wood, from the turn of the last century. They operate the dock and friends that visited earlier in the season were offered a combo of docking fee and breakfast at a reasonable price. Now the hotel was full and could not accommodate us for breakfast.

We had a nice evening stroll in the valley and along the fjord. Strawberries and raspberries were ripe and provided a small desert.

Another rainy day allows us some rest and time for administration and laundry today. Tomorrow looks promising and we hope to be able to continue sailing. There are some interesting fjords just south of Alesund that we would like to explore.

We left Mageroya and was met by a westerly in the fairway outside. It was perfect for sailing, and we started tacking upwind.

Slow going against wind and a week tide for a couple of hours before the wind died down. Out faithful engine was put back in service all the way to Kristiansund. It was sunnier then on the last visit.

We heard from a Norwegian boat thar one should have fish and chips in “Fishan”. The instructions were clear, as always, when we got them but, it took us three trips along the docks and roads before we found it (good exercise). It was a small shop that had a 60’ies feel and the fish was excellent (and the ships a bit underdone to our taste).

We left quite early and were able to sail downwind for a few hours before the wind became to week in the swell of “Hustaviken”. Back to motoring past impressive breakers.

We met one of the Swedish boats, Lotte, on our way and chatted on the VHF for quite some time. It had, unfortunately, not been possible to arrange to meet in a harbour, maybe next time.

We arrived in Midsund in the afternoon and were lucky to get the best spot in the marina from a boat just leaving. The marina is very nice and there are several groceries and other shops nearby. The islands offer a lot of well chartered hikes.

It was sunny and warm. Maybe a little to warm for a hike up the stair. This time we only did 150 meters above sea level where we stopped for a beer (non-alcoholic) and to admire the view.

We left Kuringenvagen before breakfast and motored southwest in the archipelago. Past Kjeungskjær Lighthouse lighthouse once again.

Sone after, the fairway turned south and we had a moderate westerly for about 30 minutes that allowed us to sail until a wooded island blocked it out. Back to motoring and as we turn SW again, increasing wind heading us.

We motor all the way to Mageroya (Magerøa). This is a recreation island owned by the Norwegian state. They have done a nice job of keeping the old trading post buildings in good condition. And a lot of effort have recently been devoted to restoring the open agricultural landscape of old days.

Mageroya is known to have been inhabited since before Viking days. It has been important for the trading along the coast for centuries.

Visitors are welcome and there are now two pontoons, all with finger pontoons. One finds many paths and activities for all ages on the island.

We were lucky to be able to have the kids onboard during three sunny and warm summer days. They had barely left before the clouds returned. We motored south from Rorvik and were able to sail for a while before the wind turned against us and the clouds thickened.

We found ourselves banging into an increasing wind and a shoppy sea after another hour. The cockpit cover was up as the rain had started to fall. Temperature had dropped from well over 20 to 15 and the long johns and sweaters were back in service to keep us warm. Why fight the elements? we taught and headed inshore.

It was a detour of a few nautical miles but we probably did not lose any time as the going was faster between the island. The sea had settled, and the wind and rain subsided, when we headed out to sea again for the southern part of “Folla”, the stretch of open water on the fairway south.

We stopped at Bessaker, an old trading post, for the night and to weather the wind and rain forecasted for the following day. Bessaket turned out to be well protected from the SW winds but it was blowing strong, gusting 40 kn (20 m/s) and the wind-waves in the sound outside “rounded the corner” and caused some swell at the pontoon.

The rain was over in late afternoon allowing a walk up the 951 wooden steps to “Vettan” 145 meters above the sea. This has been a site for lookouts and signalling for more than a thousand years. Hakon I the Good (Håkon I den gode) established a system with beacons to be lit to warn for dangers along this coast around year 950. Bessaker was one of them and was in use for many centuries. It was also used as a lookout for the Norwegian army in WW I and for the Germans during WW II.

The view from the top was magnificent. The wind was so strong that it was difficult to walk or stand upright so, we walked back to the lee of the harbour.

We had sun for 3-4 hours yesterday morning and used this to motor to Kuringenvagen, Stokksund. We have stayed here today, another rainy day, and hope to be able to continue SW tomorrow.

We sailed from Leka to Rorvik (Rørvik) where we met up with one of our sons, his wife and two-year-old daughter, a real charmer. We had two wonderful days with them on Sor-gjeslingan (Sør-gjeslingan). The weather was exceptionally warm with clear blue skies.

On the first night the small pontoon was host to two Swedish boat when we were joined by friends on Xavita.

We had out crab pot out, from the pontoon near the breakwater, during the night and caught four large crabs using chicken bones as bait. Trey tasted delicious and we were all so excited over the catch than, among four persons with cameras, none of us managed to document them.

Sor-gjeslingan is an old fishing hamlet once home to more than 4 000 fishermen in season, now in part a museum.

We wanted to reach Sandnessjoen (Sandnessjøen) before some heavy weather arrived and left Bolga quite early. We motored in the lovely Helgeland archipelago favouring channels and sounds among the smaller islands to the west of the larger ones.

It was still calm when we stopped for some cod fishing and secured dinner. Then a light breeze picked up allowing us to sail southwards but preventing us to catch he big cod we were trying for.

Sandnessjoen is a small town with a good harbour. We were happy to see Carmensita and Salto on the pontoon. Friends took our lines and promptly lured us onboard Salto to meet the family and have an anchor dram of Myken whiskey.

We have now crossed our northward track (red) and concluded our 550 nm sail above the polar circle (dashed yellow line)

We were able to move to the leeward side of the pontoons between the rain showers the following day. We tied up with all our lined with dampeners to be secure in the expected storm.

Eva left with the ferry to Nesna today to meat with her aunt who has been receiving several packages for us. Now we have spare parts for the toilet and stove to be installed the next rainy day (not to far of if we are to believe the forecasts).

Midsommer was celebrated with traditional food and drinks.

Wishing everyone a nice midsummer and summer.

We left Rost in much better visibility then on our arrival. With it’s  shark fin shaped mountain in clear view.

There was not much wind, so we motored towards the coast. It was a splendid day with clear blue skies and very good visibility allowing us to sea both the costal mountains and the Lofoten islands in the distance. As we approached the coast, we saw the lion on Rodoy (Rødøyløva) laying looking out to sea.

We picked up som wind the last hours and were able to sail in under the lighthouse on Kalsholmen. We had used the glacier Sortisen to steer by for a long time and it was still prominent as we sailed to the small harbour of Bolga.

Bolga was a pleasant island. It has nice walks but, time did not allow. The restaurant is run by a chef from Gothenburg. We had a long chat with him, and he presented us to a sample of a very nice Myken whiskey. The drinks as well as the first night on the dock were free of charge.

We availed ourselves of the easily accessible fuelling station, with the lowest price (for us) so far in Norway, before we left the following day.