We have spent some days in Lerwick now and the plan was to sail today to a nice anchorage just a few miles down the coast. However, the forecast this morning was for fog and later rain. Not the best weather to be at anchor so we will stay another day.

We left Maloy and Norway early Thursday. The weather was not inspiring with low clouds mist and rain and no wind, but we know that it would improve later in the day. What we did not know was that the forecasted moderate swell would be so irregular, short and generally confused giving us a rather unpleasant journey for the first 24 hours. We had an explanation for the sea state from a Begen sailor. The Norwegian current runs up the coast and meats the swell from the north making the swell short and irregular.

The skies lifted and a moderate northerly breeze picked up. It was enough to give some air in the sails, but the swell rocked most of it out, so we kept on motoring. We could not turn of the motor until five hours out when the wind was steady above 13 knots giving enough pressure to keep the sails full all the time.

The wind increased further, and we soon found ourselves with a reefed mainsail doing seven knots on an open reach in winds at 20 knots (10 m/s) and some. This wind lasted until early the following morning, and we were making good headway towards Shetland. When we headed up a little between the oil riggs, we even had to take a reef in the genoa to make the sailing a little less uncomfortable.

The wind became moderate in the early morning and the swell more even already after the oil fields. We found ourselves motoring again over a calm sea after breakfast and arrived in Lerwick half past two (15:30 Norwegiantime) after 215 nm and 34 hours.

Lerwick is a nice little town and a refreshing change from Norway. Don’t misunderstand us, we loved Norway but after nearly three months and retracing our outward journey the last weeks, we needed something different. We had out first pint of beer after clearing customs (by internet in advance and confirmation by phone) and fish and ships for dinner, and a long night sleep..

The nice girls in the tourist office, whom we have visited several times for information, recommended several trips around the island by the local busses. We had planned to rent a car, but this proved unnecessary. The first trip was up the hill to near the local brewery. For £1.2, we got within 10 minutes from the brewery.

Lerwick brewery is open for visitor, guided tours or just tasting. We selected to taste all their different beers and were lucky to be the only visitors at the time. We got to talk with the brewer, a guy from California who had married a local girl, and he gave us lots of information on the products but also places to see and sail to.

On his advice, we walked instead of taking the bus back. There was nothing wrong with the directions, but we took a higher route from the hill we had to pass as we taught it would take us to where we wanted but with better views. That was not to be, and we found ourselves walking further and further from our rout. We walked a considerable detour and, in the end, jumped some fences to sneak through a private garden to get back in the right direction.

We finally arrived at Clickimin Broch, a stone structure probably built between 2 400 and 2 100 B.C. The broches are only found in Northen Scotland and on the islands. The structures were much higher in it’s time. Scholars debate whether they were prestigious houses or local strongholds.

We took the buss south the following day. A one hour ride took us to the southernmost part of Shetland. Here, there is a large, white beach. It looks inviting but the water is less than 12 degrees., so no swimming for us.

The hotel served lunch and after lunch we saw Jarlshof. This site is very interesting. Here one will find historic remains from different times side by side. The earlies dates back 4 500 years. Here were bronze age houses of different ages, a broach, several Viking houses, a 13:th century farm and, the tallest ruin, a 16:th century laird’s house.

A 2 km costal path leads from Jarlshof to the lighthouse on Sumburgh Head.

The head has a large colony of birds, and we were finally able to see the puffins close by. We have seen them flying and fishing but never close enough to the boat to get a good look.

The light house had a nice cafe with good coffee and splendid views to revive us before walking back to the bus stop. We were early so we had time for a quick one in the hotel bar before heading home.

Yesterday was a day for provisioning and cleaning, and beer at the boating club. Today, we have fixed some small things on the boat and rested. The Indian restaurant Safron served good food in large porions. Now we hope the forecast will come through for tomorrow.